viernes, 11 de abril de 2014

Point/Counterpoint: Transportation in Peru vs. the US

All the blogs I follow have been writing posts like, "Top Ten Reasons Peru is Better Than the US" or "Ten Things I Miss From Home." It's interesting and entertaining to explore the differences between Peru and the US, but I want to do a more in-depth analysis. Besides, let's spread the fun out over more than just one post. So I decided to make Point/Counterpoint, where I compare one aspect life in Peru and the US, and award a point to one country. I don't know if I'm using the phrase "Point/Counterpoint" correctly, but who cares?

Today, I want to talk about something fundamental but often overlooked in travel guides and other discussions about places: public transportation. If you don't have a car, then this can affect your everyday life in a major way.

Transportation in Peru

"Public" transportation is a misnomer, since the bus companies here are actually competing private businesses. The city of Lima only has two public transportation systems, the Metropolitano bus line and the elevated train. They both get crowded during rush hour, but otherwise they're fantastic. The problem is that they cover a very limited range. But not to worry, for wherever else you need to go, there are a multitude of vehicles to get you there. You can get virtually anywhere in the city on a bus, unlike most US cities (cough Mpls/St. Paul).

El Metropolitano. Source: La Republica

Additionally, the buses are so plentiful that if you miss your bus, another will be along in less than 10 minutes. Add the fact that fares are based on how far you're going and you don't need exact change (there is a cobrador who collects the fare), and Peru is looking pretty good.

However, there are definite downsides. Buses here have a horrific track record when it comes to safety. Just this week, there were two separate news reports of bad accidents caused by irresponsible drivers. One of them ran over a pedestrian when the driver went up on the sidewalk to pass another bus. The other incident involved a crash of two small buses that left two dead and many others injured. Both drivers had over 12,000 soles ($5000) in unpaid fines. Because the companies are privately owned, they all participate in a suicidal race to be the fastest, claiming innocent victims along the way.

Source: El Comercio

That being said, if you know which buses and companies to avoid (and watch where you're walking), I don't feel that it's a whole lot less safe than anywhere else. I never get in the small combi vans or the mid-size buses you see in the picture, instead using the big buses that are generally much safer.

Other negatives include pollution from aging buses and a lack of handicap access.

Transportation in the US

Firstly, this analysis is drawn from a limited sample size of cities, since I've only lived in the Twin Cities, Ann Arbor, and San Francisco. Although there were some differences in their transportation systems, there are some generalizations to be made.

First, because the drivers have to go through a background check and safety rules are enforced, buses in the US are much safer than in Peru. They drive the speed limit, stop for pedestrians, and generally drive defensively. Additionally, because of the ADA, handicapped people are also able to use the buses. The buses are modern and for the most part clean, and many cities are using green technology to cut down on emissions.

My old friend, the SF Muni. Source: RentCafe.com

One downside is the fixed fare. If you are only going a short ways, this is kind of unfortunate. On the other hand, transfers can save you a lot of money if you are going a long ways or are just running a short errand. You do need to have exact change though, which means I've bought many packs of gum over the years. And I don't chew gum.

The other negative of public transportation in the US is that because it is public, it has a limited budget. The government simply can't afford to service all the areas of the city, or to have a bus show up every 10 minutes. Which means that sometimes, when it's below zero and you can see your breath, you need to wait a half hour for the bus and then walk 7 blocks to your destination. In the winter, that really sucks.

Overall, despite the poor safety record and other concerns, for me convenience wins the day. Point: Peru.

martes, 1 de abril de 2014

Quilca Book Market

This weekend Jorge and I ventured into Lima's historic district for a shopping trip. I love going to Lima Centro because the architecture is so striking, and the pace of life is completely different from other parts of Lima. There are food carts selling all kinds of things (eat at your own risk), street vendors selling everything from playing cards to screwdrivers, and all sorts of hole-in-the-wall stores selling amazing wares. Sadly, much of the district is dirty and the buildings are in disrepair. A few years ago, the city boarded up a much-loved theater and counterculture meeting place because the structure was deemed unsound.

Old-style architecture on Quilca boulevard

 Quilca boulevard is another beloved part of downtown, home to many secondhand and "informal" book markets and antique stores. I love reading fashion magazines and had been missing my fix since coming to Peru because magazines are prohibitively expensive here. In a bookstore, a current issue of Vogue goes for S/. 30! That's more than $8 and way more than I'm willing to pay. Even Peruvian magazines go for $6 and up. But the Quilca markets have outdated and secondhand magazines for as little as $1.


These shops aren't much to look at, but they have some fascinating things for sale. I saw Bill Clinton's memoir (in English), old Spanish language versions of Life magazine, vintage Penthouse magazines, and German erotica. I wasn't exactly looking for anything racy, however, so I headed for the stacks of back issues of fashion magazines. All in all, I got four magazines and Jorge got 2, all for under $15.


In between all the secondhand book markets, there are tiny antique stalls with really eclectic offerings. There were lots of old coins, some jewelry, and whatever else they thought might sell. My favorite was this troll wearing a Cusqueña beer shirt next to the Hulk fist.  This is why I love going downtown; you never know what you'll find!