The Real Machu Picchu

It's practically obligatory for tourists in Peru to see Machu Picchu, and with good reason. The view of it from above is breathtaking; the stonework and engineering is incredible; and the imposing mountain of Huayna Picchu presides over this Inca citadel like a majestic guardian. Machu Picchu truly deserves to be named a "wonder of the world."

 And yet, the view today is not the one seen by Hiram Bingham when a few local farmers brought him up to the ruins. (And no, he did not "discover" Machu Picchu; it was familiar to many Peruvians for at least decades before he stepped foot there.) There are ropes delineating a path which must be followed at all times; if you step outside the boundary, one of the ubiquitous guards will blow his whistle and shepherd you back to the path. On the backside of the ruins, you can see the hydroelectric plant which provides power to the town of Aguas Calientes, the base for exploring the ruins. Ladders and other tools used for repairs can be seen among the buildings. Most of all, however, are the tourists swarming over every surface, 3,000 per day in the high season. People talk about the energy of the place, the tranquility and connection they feel to the original inhabitants. As I watched the tourists crawling over the temples and terraces, with their cameras around their necks and hats emblazoned with "Machu Picchu" (which were probably made in China), I couldn't help but feel as if I were in a zoo.

Of course, I fully realize that I was one of those tourists with the camara around my neck (although I would never wear one of those hats). It's a place worth seeing, and many people want to see it. I offer no solutions, only my observations. Now, onto specific details!

It's possible to climb the mountains of Machu Picchu and Huayna Picchu; however, this costs extra, must be reserved in advance, and is not for the faint of heart. Instead, Brian and I opted for the climb to Inti Punku, the Sun Gate, which is the entrance from the Inca Trail. It was no picnic, but worth the climb. The view is great, it's very relaxing, and not too many tourists bother to climb all the way up. Of course, while relaxing, I had the horrible realization that I had left my purse somewhere along the trail. Brian gallantly retraced our steps to about halfway down, recovered the purse, and hiked back up. Phew. 

The view from Inti Punku

After that, we visited the Inca Bridge, another less-traveled route. While it wasn't terribly impressive, it was a nice respite from the tourist hordes, and offered a view of the backside of the mountain, including the hydroelectric plant. 

After spending all day there, we were exhausted. I don't know how the people arriving from the Inca trail have any energy to hike up all the steps there are after 4 days of walking. Machu Picchu is actually lower than Cusco, though at around 3,000 meters, it's still a struggle.

Overall, I would say that Machu Picchu is still quite impressive despite being one of the prime tourist attractions in the world. If you go, don't expect tranquility and photos devoid of other people. Oh, and expect to pay a lot of money; this certainly put a dent in our budget!