Fiestas Patrias (Independence Day Celebrations)

You think July 4th is a big deal? Think again. Here in Peru, the whole month of July is devoted to patriotism and independence celebrations, with things ramping up toward July 28th, their independence day. Here in Peru, they take patriotism to a whole new level.

 Selling flags at an intersection

The most visible sign is the flags. The roofs of Lima are bedecked with flags, and temporary islands pop up in busy intersections to sell flags and stands. Street vendors move between cars during red lights selling flag pins, flag ribbons, small flags, big flags. Every district tries to out-flag and out-patriot the others, with billboards and posters in festive red and white carrying sanitized patriotic statements with the district mayor's name scrawled below. The flag fever is so complete here that in some districts, you can face a fine for not putting up a flag.

Flag display in the roundabout in Miraflores

There have been events scattered throughout the month, but the main event happens over the long weekend. (Because independence day falls on a Sunday, Monday is a national holiday.) There are showcases of dances from different regions of Peru, music, parades, pop-up bazaars, and TV extravaganzas. The president gives his State of the Union address on July 28th, and police and the military march in a parade. I have to say that it's probably the most impressive marching I've ever seen: legs straight out to ninety degrees, for all three miles of the parade. Everywhere Peruvians can be seen stuffing themselves with picarones, Peru's answer to Tiny Tim mini donuts.

The line for picarones in the Parque de la Amistad

And then there are the parties. Peruvians love any excuse for a party, and there is none better than Fiestas Patrias. Unfortunately, I was on antibiotics all weekend so I was not able to join in the fun, even in a reasonable and restrained manner. This made me a bit grumpy, and I found myself resenting the obnoxiously loud party at the neighbors'. I found myself reminiscing about the very sound-proof insulation in the U.S. as the music kept going until well past 4 AM at full volume.

Of course, that's not to say that all Peruvians go crazy and have wild parties. Plenty of families go to the park, throw some things on the grill, and are in bed by 10 o'clock. Now if only I lived next to those people...