I'm tired of being underemployed. I can say that far and beyond any other thing in Lima, the employment situation is the single most frustrating part for me and I'm guessing many other expats who come down without an expat package with a foreign company. It's one of the main reason expats leave: they're tired of teaching English, and they're tired of scraping by. Lima is either very cheap or very expensive depending on your employment situation. For English teachers, it's usually very expensive.
Now, having said that, I'm not starving and I have a flourishing social life. I spend more than is prudent on alcohol and eating out, although I do cook a lot, and my home is full of beautiful things. HOWEVER. I have a college degree, a teaching certification, and over three years' experience doing what I do, and I earn around $10 an hour teaching at institutes. This is pretty standard pay, although it doesn't seem to vary much with experience. Thankfully, I no longer have to schlep all over town like I used to, but institutes are not good to their teachers. There is no contract and no health insurance (I have private insurance now). According to Peruvian law, workers on contract are paid an extra salary in July and December, called gratificación. Institutes (and language departments of universities, by the way) will bend over backward to avoid paying this. It's a depressing situation.
Universities are no less exploitative, but the pay is better, and private students will pay double what you make at an institute. The dilemma with that is that you have to go all over town to their houses or businesses (see "schlepping" above).
And what if, gasp, you don't want to teach English? Well then my friend, you have got some pretty slim pickings. Most jobs for skilled workers, like engineers or geologists or technology experts, are hired from overseas. The jobs advertised locally in Peru are few for English speakers, and essentially none if you don't have a carné (residence permit). There are a few openings at the US Embassy, but I don't want to imagine the volume of resumes they receive. Full disclosure: I applied for two positions and still haven't heard back. I've got an interview on Friday for a company that hooks up qualified Peruvians (read: rich and fluent in English) for a seasonal work visa in the US. It was advertised as an "English interviewer" position, and I was thrilled at the prospect of not teaching English. Until, you guessed it, in the initial interview I was told they want to start an English program for culinary students whose English falls a bit short, and they need someone to design and teach the curriculum. So you see, it seems you just can't get away from it. :)
jueves, 15 de mayo de 2014
viernes, 11 de abril de 2014
Point/Counterpoint: Transportation in Peru vs. the US
All the blogs I follow have been writing posts like, "Top Ten Reasons Peru is Better Than the US" or "Ten Things I Miss From Home." It's interesting and entertaining to explore the differences between Peru and the US, but I want to do a more in-depth analysis. Besides, let's spread the fun out over more than just one post. So I decided to make Point/Counterpoint, where I compare one aspect life in Peru and the US, and award a point to one country. I don't know if I'm using the phrase "Point/Counterpoint" correctly, but who cares?
Today, I want to talk about something fundamental but often overlooked in travel guides and other discussions about places: public transportation. If you don't have a car, then this can affect your everyday life in a major way.
Transportation in Peru
"Public" transportation is a misnomer, since the bus companies here are actually competing private businesses. The city of Lima only has two public transportation systems, the Metropolitano bus line and the elevated train. They both get crowded during rush hour, but otherwise they're fantastic. The problem is that they cover a very limited range. But not to worry, for wherever else you need to go, there are a multitude of vehicles to get you there. You can get virtually anywhere in the city on a bus, unlike most US cities (cough Mpls/St. Paul).
Additionally, the buses are so plentiful that if you miss your bus, another will be along in less than 10 minutes. Add the fact that fares are based on how far you're going and you don't need exact change (there is a cobrador who collects the fare), and Peru is looking pretty good.
However, there are definite downsides. Buses here have a horrific track record when it comes to safety. Just this week, there were two separate news reports of bad accidents caused by irresponsible drivers. One of them ran over a pedestrian when the driver went up on the sidewalk to pass another bus. The other incident involved a crash of two small buses that left two dead and many others injured. Both drivers had over 12,000 soles ($5000) in unpaid fines. Because the companies are privately owned, they all participate in a suicidal race to be the fastest, claiming innocent victims along the way.
That being said, if you know which buses and companies to avoid (and watch where you're walking), I don't feel that it's a whole lot less safe than anywhere else. I never get in the small combi vans or the mid-size buses you see in the picture, instead using the big buses that are generally much safer.
Other negatives include pollution from aging buses and a lack of handicap access.
Transportation in the US
Firstly, this analysis is drawn from a limited sample size of cities, since I've only lived in the Twin Cities, Ann Arbor, and San Francisco. Although there were some differences in their transportation systems, there are some generalizations to be made.
First, because the drivers have to go through a background check and safety rules are enforced, buses in the US are much safer than in Peru. They drive the speed limit, stop for pedestrians, and generally drive defensively. Additionally, because of the ADA, handicapped people are also able to use the buses. The buses are modern and for the most part clean, and many cities are using green technology to cut down on emissions.
One downside is the fixed fare. If you are only going a short ways, this is kind of unfortunate. On the other hand, transfers can save you a lot of money if you are going a long ways or are just running a short errand. You do need to have exact change though, which means I've bought many packs of gum over the years. And I don't chew gum.
The other negative of public transportation in the US is that because it is public, it has a limited budget. The government simply can't afford to service all the areas of the city, or to have a bus show up every 10 minutes. Which means that sometimes, when it's below zero and you can see your breath, you need to wait a half hour for the bus and then walk 7 blocks to your destination. In the winter, that really sucks.
Overall, despite the poor safety record and other concerns, for me convenience wins the day. Point: Peru.
Today, I want to talk about something fundamental but often overlooked in travel guides and other discussions about places: public transportation. If you don't have a car, then this can affect your everyday life in a major way.
Transportation in Peru
"Public" transportation is a misnomer, since the bus companies here are actually competing private businesses. The city of Lima only has two public transportation systems, the Metropolitano bus line and the elevated train. They both get crowded during rush hour, but otherwise they're fantastic. The problem is that they cover a very limited range. But not to worry, for wherever else you need to go, there are a multitude of vehicles to get you there. You can get virtually anywhere in the city on a bus, unlike most US cities (cough Mpls/St. Paul).
El Metropolitano. Source: La Republica
Additionally, the buses are so plentiful that if you miss your bus, another will be along in less than 10 minutes. Add the fact that fares are based on how far you're going and you don't need exact change (there is a cobrador who collects the fare), and Peru is looking pretty good.
However, there are definite downsides. Buses here have a horrific track record when it comes to safety. Just this week, there were two separate news reports of bad accidents caused by irresponsible drivers. One of them ran over a pedestrian when the driver went up on the sidewalk to pass another bus. The other incident involved a crash of two small buses that left two dead and many others injured. Both drivers had over 12,000 soles ($5000) in unpaid fines. Because the companies are privately owned, they all participate in a suicidal race to be the fastest, claiming innocent victims along the way.
Source: El Comercio
That being said, if you know which buses and companies to avoid (and watch where you're walking), I don't feel that it's a whole lot less safe than anywhere else. I never get in the small combi vans or the mid-size buses you see in the picture, instead using the big buses that are generally much safer.
Other negatives include pollution from aging buses and a lack of handicap access.
Transportation in the US
Firstly, this analysis is drawn from a limited sample size of cities, since I've only lived in the Twin Cities, Ann Arbor, and San Francisco. Although there were some differences in their transportation systems, there are some generalizations to be made.
First, because the drivers have to go through a background check and safety rules are enforced, buses in the US are much safer than in Peru. They drive the speed limit, stop for pedestrians, and generally drive defensively. Additionally, because of the ADA, handicapped people are also able to use the buses. The buses are modern and for the most part clean, and many cities are using green technology to cut down on emissions.
My old friend, the SF Muni. Source: RentCafe.com
One downside is the fixed fare. If you are only going a short ways, this is kind of unfortunate. On the other hand, transfers can save you a lot of money if you are going a long ways or are just running a short errand. You do need to have exact change though, which means I've bought many packs of gum over the years. And I don't chew gum.
The other negative of public transportation in the US is that because it is public, it has a limited budget. The government simply can't afford to service all the areas of the city, or to have a bus show up every 10 minutes. Which means that sometimes, when it's below zero and you can see your breath, you need to wait a half hour for the bus and then walk 7 blocks to your destination. In the winter, that really sucks.
Overall, despite the poor safety record and other concerns, for me convenience wins the day. Point: Peru.
martes, 1 de abril de 2014
Quilca Book Market
This weekend Jorge and I ventured into Lima's historic district for a shopping trip. I love going to Lima Centro because the architecture is so striking, and the pace of life is completely different from other parts of Lima. There are food carts selling all kinds of things (eat at your own risk), street vendors selling everything from playing cards to screwdrivers, and all sorts of hole-in-the-wall stores selling amazing wares. Sadly, much of the district is dirty and the buildings are in disrepair. A few years ago, the city boarded up a much-loved theater and counterculture meeting place because the structure was deemed unsound.
Quilca boulevard is another beloved part of downtown, home to many secondhand and "informal" book markets and antique stores. I love reading fashion magazines and had been missing my fix since coming to Peru because magazines are prohibitively expensive here. In a bookstore, a current issue of Vogue goes for S/. 30! That's more than $8 and way more than I'm willing to pay. Even Peruvian magazines go for $6 and up. But the Quilca markets have outdated and secondhand magazines for as little as $1.
These shops aren't much to look at, but they have some fascinating things for sale. I saw Bill Clinton's memoir (in English), old Spanish language versions of Life magazine, vintage Penthouse magazines, and German erotica. I wasn't exactly looking for anything racy, however, so I headed for the stacks of back issues of fashion magazines. All in all, I got four magazines and Jorge got 2, all for under $15.
In between all the secondhand book markets, there are tiny antique stalls with really eclectic offerings. There were lots of old coins, some jewelry, and whatever else they thought might sell. My favorite was this troll wearing a Cusqueña beer shirt next to the Hulk fist. This is why I love going downtown; you never know what you'll find!
Old-style architecture on Quilca boulevard
Quilca boulevard is another beloved part of downtown, home to many secondhand and "informal" book markets and antique stores. I love reading fashion magazines and had been missing my fix since coming to Peru because magazines are prohibitively expensive here. In a bookstore, a current issue of Vogue goes for S/. 30! That's more than $8 and way more than I'm willing to pay. Even Peruvian magazines go for $6 and up. But the Quilca markets have outdated and secondhand magazines for as little as $1.
These shops aren't much to look at, but they have some fascinating things for sale. I saw Bill Clinton's memoir (in English), old Spanish language versions of Life magazine, vintage Penthouse magazines, and German erotica. I wasn't exactly looking for anything racy, however, so I headed for the stacks of back issues of fashion magazines. All in all, I got four magazines and Jorge got 2, all for under $15.
In between all the secondhand book markets, there are tiny antique stalls with really eclectic offerings. There were lots of old coins, some jewelry, and whatever else they thought might sell. My favorite was this troll wearing a Cusqueña beer shirt next to the Hulk fist. This is why I love going downtown; you never know what you'll find!
domingo, 23 de marzo de 2014
(Don't) Feed the Birds
One of my favorite things about the area I live in is that every morning, I wake up to the sound of birds singing. In Lima, finding a quiet neighborhood is really difficult, so I consider myself very lucky. There are a lot of different birds, but one of them makes quite a unique sound and it's by far my absolute favorite:
The only downside to having so many birds around is that sometimes they leave you an unwanted gift. We have no dryer, so all of the drying has to be done the old-fashioned way on a line outside, and it's almost guaranteed that every time there will be at least one thing has needs to be washed again. Oh well, a small price to pay in my opinion.
viernes, 21 de marzo de 2014
Renter's Remorse
Yesterday, after three consecutive days of cancellations, the plumber finally came and installed our new toilet. This was really exciting, because we had been flushing using the ol' bucket of water method since Saturday. And, we were kind of sick of looking at our beautiful new toilet still in its cardboard stacked right in the entrance. I'd post a picture, but really, that's kind of weird.
When we moved in back in October, the apartment was a mess and the bathroom was absolutely disgusting. The previous tenant had been living there three years, and I'm pretty sure he never cleaned it even once. We changed the sink because there was just no way to get the scum off, but the toilet was out of our budget then. Now, in my opinion these things are the landlady/owner's duty (I mean, at least hire a professional to clean things for crying out loud) but we sucked it up because we had no choice.
Last Saturday when the toilet broke, she hired a plumber to come take a look. He said he could fix it, but because the toilet was old and fragile, it would probably stop working again and there was a chance he might actually break the ceramic while fixing it. We discussed putting in a new toilet and she said that she'd put up half the money. Again, I think this is her responsibility and not the renters', but we agreed because we really couldn't handle that old toilet anymore. Since we didn't have any cash, we told her to take our part out of the security deposit. She handed us some money and we went that day to buy the supplies. When we went to settle up later, she told us that all the money was from our security deposit and we had to pay for the whole thing! Including the plumber's fee. She seems like a nice old lady but that's just out of line. I was so mad you could practically see the steam coming from my ears like in the cartoons. I know this sounds petty, but I no longer feel the need to be quite such a considerate renter. I'll play my music as loud as I like and I'm going to use all the water and electricity that I feel like. Maybe we'll invite people over and have a loud party. (Actually, our place is too small for that, but it's the idea of the thing.)
Anyway, now we have a beautiful new toilet that flushes, and we also had the guy install the new light fixture that we bought. (The landlady also said she'd pay for that since hers was from the 60s and the bulbs were burnt out, but surprise! She didn't.) Most plumbers here are also electricians and general all-around handymen. We went to shut off the power so he could change it, but the landlady's daughter, who is mentally ill, came running and shrieking ready to fight us, so we had to leave it on and the man changed the fixture with live current running through the wires!
Sometimes I think Peruvians are insane. Another example: a friend locked herself out of her apartment at 10 at night. There were no locksmiths to be found at that time, so we asked her doorman if he knew of any way to break in. Her place has a laundry room facing the courtyard, and the windows were open. The only thing: she lives on the fourth floor. So he brings up a ladder and lays it across from the balcony to the laundry room window. We all look down and swallow. The ladder barely reaches across and is incredibly unstable. She thinks about going, climbs up to the ledge, and then climbs back down. Before we can blink, the doorman climbs up, takes one step on the ladder, and launches himself into the apartment. You can bet we gave him a stiff drink after that, and also a nice tip.
When we moved in back in October, the apartment was a mess and the bathroom was absolutely disgusting. The previous tenant had been living there three years, and I'm pretty sure he never cleaned it even once. We changed the sink because there was just no way to get the scum off, but the toilet was out of our budget then. Now, in my opinion these things are the landlady/owner's duty (I mean, at least hire a professional to clean things for crying out loud) but we sucked it up because we had no choice.
Last Saturday when the toilet broke, she hired a plumber to come take a look. He said he could fix it, but because the toilet was old and fragile, it would probably stop working again and there was a chance he might actually break the ceramic while fixing it. We discussed putting in a new toilet and she said that she'd put up half the money. Again, I think this is her responsibility and not the renters', but we agreed because we really couldn't handle that old toilet anymore. Since we didn't have any cash, we told her to take our part out of the security deposit. She handed us some money and we went that day to buy the supplies. When we went to settle up later, she told us that all the money was from our security deposit and we had to pay for the whole thing! Including the plumber's fee. She seems like a nice old lady but that's just out of line. I was so mad you could practically see the steam coming from my ears like in the cartoons. I know this sounds petty, but I no longer feel the need to be quite such a considerate renter. I'll play my music as loud as I like and I'm going to use all the water and electricity that I feel like. Maybe we'll invite people over and have a loud party. (Actually, our place is too small for that, but it's the idea of the thing.)
Anyway, now we have a beautiful new toilet that flushes, and we also had the guy install the new light fixture that we bought. (The landlady also said she'd pay for that since hers was from the 60s and the bulbs were burnt out, but surprise! She didn't.) Most plumbers here are also electricians and general all-around handymen. We went to shut off the power so he could change it, but the landlady's daughter, who is mentally ill, came running and shrieking ready to fight us, so we had to leave it on and the man changed the fixture with live current running through the wires!
Sometimes I think Peruvians are insane. Another example: a friend locked herself out of her apartment at 10 at night. There were no locksmiths to be found at that time, so we asked her doorman if he knew of any way to break in. Her place has a laundry room facing the courtyard, and the windows were open. The only thing: she lives on the fourth floor. So he brings up a ladder and lays it across from the balcony to the laundry room window. We all look down and swallow. The ladder barely reaches across and is incredibly unstable. She thinks about going, climbs up to the ledge, and then climbs back down. Before we can blink, the doorman climbs up, takes one step on the ladder, and launches himself into the apartment. You can bet we gave him a stiff drink after that, and also a nice tip.
lunes, 10 de marzo de 2014
A Sad Goodbye
In my last post about the school, I was very hopeful about the school year. Unfortunately, my expectations and the reality were very different, and today I had to leave my job for health reasons.
What I should have realized before accepting the job is that teaching in an institute and teaching in an elementary school are very different beasts: in an institute with adults, you can spend most of the class seated, whereas with thirty children you have to always be on your feet, demonstrating, circulating, checking. With three 90-minute classes in a day, plus recess duty and miscellaneous other fetching and running back and forth, this amounts to a lot of time standing. For an average person, this would merely be tiring, but with my history of inexplicable back problems it has proved disastrous.
As far as the job goes, I am sorry to put the school in such a difficult position, especially so soon in the school year. I feel like I have let them, and myself, down. I will miss my colleagues, especially the other teachers in my department. There are some kids that I will remember fondly, and others that I won't lose any sleep over. I feel relieved, and sad, and embarrassed, all at the same time, and more than anything I wish that things were different.
What I should have realized before accepting the job is that teaching in an institute and teaching in an elementary school are very different beasts: in an institute with adults, you can spend most of the class seated, whereas with thirty children you have to always be on your feet, demonstrating, circulating, checking. With three 90-minute classes in a day, plus recess duty and miscellaneous other fetching and running back and forth, this amounts to a lot of time standing. For an average person, this would merely be tiring, but with my history of inexplicable back problems it has proved disastrous.
As far as the job goes, I am sorry to put the school in such a difficult position, especially so soon in the school year. I feel like I have let them, and myself, down. I will miss my colleagues, especially the other teachers in my department. There are some kids that I will remember fondly, and others that I won't lose any sleep over. I feel relieved, and sad, and embarrassed, all at the same time, and more than anything I wish that things were different.
domingo, 2 de marzo de 2014
La BioFeria: the Best Farmer's Market
You know the saying, "If you want something done right, do it yourself"? I guess a variation of that would be that if you can't find what you're looking for, make it yourself. Well, that's what a ton of expats have done down here. I spent a lot of last year missing products that I couldn't find here without realizing that they were here along, right under my nose! Now there are two brewpubs in Barranco, both run by expats. There is a delicious eco-friendly bakery in Chorrillos run by a German. Yesterday I went to the BioFeria in Miraflores, a kind of farmer's market, for the first time, and it was amazing. At least half of the booths were run by expats who felt a need for certain products and decided to do it themselves. I found all varieties of herbs and spices, natural lotions and shampoo, organic coffee and chocolate, delicious pastries, even sprouted nuts and seeds. My favorite find: heirloom cherry tomatoes. I have been missing those since I left the states and was ecstatic to find them down here at last. That and the goat cheese I bought made for the best salad I've had all year. Unfortunately, I don't have photos but I'm definitely going back next Saturday so I'll take some!
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